Hibiscus is stretching out long branches but no flowers!?

I'm thinking that they are protesting the fact that they are still in pots and not in the ground. What do you think?



I have a little area near a privacy fence where I could plant them. This is TX, and it gets really hot. I could plant them with morning/aftnoon sun, or afternoon shade, or I could plant them where there is mostly shade. Opinions?



Thanks, y'all
Hibiscus is stretching out long branches but no flowers!?
Hibiscus are generally easy plants to grow and should pose few problems if cultural requirements are followed.



* SOIL: A rich, well-drained soil mixture is desirable. A good potting mix could contain two parts potting soil, two parts peat moss and one part perlite or vermiculite.



* TEMPERATURE: Being a tropical plant, the hibiscus does not tolerate cold temperatures. Warm temperatures are needed for flower buds to develop. Indoors, they should be grown in a warm, sunny location where daytime temperatures are no lower than 55°F; 65° to 75°F is best for optimum growth. Otherwise, if it is too cold, flower buds may drop off or fail to form altogether. Hibiscus cannot withstand extreme fluctuations of temperatures or humidity. Therefore, avoid placing them in drafty areas, near radiators, on TVs, or in entryways where they'll be blasted with cold air from time to time.



* LIGHT: Hibiscus require very bright light to bloom well indoors. A sunny western or southern exposure that has at least 4-5 hours of bright, direct light is best. The more light they have, the better they'll bloom, indoors or out.



* WATER: The soil should be kept relatively moist, not saturated. Never allow the soil to dry out to the point of wilting. Check the pot to make sure drainage holes are present. Water from the top of the soil down so that water runs out the bottom holes. This leaches soluble salts from the soil which would otherwise accumulate. It also ensures that the bottom roots are watered thoroughly. Excess water should be drained off. During the winter months, allow the soil to dry out a bit more between waterings.



* FERTILIZER: Hibiscus are heavy feeders and require a balanced fertilizer such as a 20-20-20 or 10-10-10. Use at half the label recommended strength every 2-3 weeks when placed outside for the summer. Indoors, fertilize less often, using ?-strength formulation, every month or so in spring and summer; less frequently in winter.



* PRUNING: Pruning should take place in late winter to encourage a bushier plant. Any leggy growth that may have shot up can be selectively trimmed back to the rest of the plant. Hibiscus can withstand a fairly heavy pruning, so don't be afraid to give your plant a good haircut, especially if you want to maintain a smaller plant. Just remember you'll be pruning off flower buds in addition to the foliage, so it will take longer to bloom.



* PROPAGATION: The easiest method of propagating these plants is from vegetative cuttings. This involves taking 3"-5" cuttings from the strongest shoots available. Dip the cut ends in a rooting hormone compound, tap off the excess and stick in a small pot filled with a light potting mixture. Keep slightly moist and place in a well lighted area. After 3-5 weeks, they should develop a good root system and be ready for transplanting. In order to encourage a bushier plant once the cutting has rooted, cut or pinch off the top inch of stem to just above a leaf node, where a leaf joins the stem.



These plants benefit tremendously from being placed outdoors after danger of frost. However, before placing them directly in full sun, it is important to acclimate them to the brighter conditions. Begin by first moving the hibiscus to a porch, then to filtered light under a shade tree and finally into the bright sunlight.



Reverse the process in the fall so that the plant is indoors before the first frost. By easing the plant into the different conditions, one can prevent bud loss and minimize foliage loss.



Common Problems



Yellow leaves: Abrupt changes in soil moisture, air temperature or drafts. Avoid excessive watering especially with older varieties. Some yellowing is normal in spring or fall when growing conditions are in transition. Yellowing may signal need for fertilizer.



Bud drop: Too cold or too hot. Needs (daytime) 65°F-75°F to develop buds. Avoid drafts. Too little or too much water. Low light conditions.



Pests: Most common insects are aphids and spider mites. Keep foliage clean by washing periodically. Use insecticidal soap or insecticides labeled for use on hibiscus if necessary.



i recommend u use HVH Special Blend Hibiscus Fertilizer



note i keep my hibiscus in a flower bed
Reply:It sounds like they're not getting enough light. Plants that don't get adequate light get "leggy," and often don't bloom. All the hibiscus plants I've ever seen do well in full sun; Houston with its humidity should be an excellent location.
Reply:they just need planted in ground i would plant in sunny place to the south, i have one in half shade and it is growing slow, the other in sun is growing faster and have a lot of saplings. they r the easiest plant i can go besides cactus
Reply:put them in the ground and be patient, some plants take forever to blossom, once they take off its like never being able to stop them, in the pots they are probably root bound (means they have out grown the pot)
Reply:I am just south of Houston and have three that bloom well. But they are in the ground. None get a lot of light all day long. You will do well if you put them in larger pots, fertilize appropriately, and prune them next spring.